Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
